NEW ARRIVALS
Getting to Know:
TCB JEANS

Words Nathan Zack
Images Garrett Frisbey


What sets TCB apart from other denim brands?

EXCLUSIVE FABRICS


TCB has built its reputation on the premium, exclusive fabrics that it uses to create its collections year after year. For instance, for the 50’s Jean, the fabric is made from 13.5oz Zimbabwean cotton on a vintage loom, which gives the material a natural unevenness and texture that can’t be approximated by computer-driven, mainstream manufacturing methods. On the 20’s jean, the denim is made from a 12.5oz Memphis cotton, selected for its ability to replicate the true vintage look and to create impeccable fades. The yarn count for both the warp and weft is 8, giving the 12.5oz fabric a deep blue indigo color quite reminiscent of classic denim from the 1920’s. Like the 20’s Jean, the 30’s Jacket features a 12.5oz Memphis cotton fabric that’s completely exclusive to TCB. Even the yarns were made exclusively for the brand, and dyed in the same dark shade of indigo that you would have found all over the place back in the 30’s.


AUTHENTIC DETAILS


It would be difficult to understate the amount of thoughtful, authentic details worked into each and every one of TCB’s products. The brand’s commitment to preserving the spirit and quality of vintage denim manifests itself in noticeable and more subtle, inconspicuous ways. For instance, take the seams on the pocket bags on the 50’s Jean. Because these seams, historically, were fairly coarse and came apart often, TCB has replicated the look and coarse feel of these seams–except minus the flimsiness, so your pocket bags will stay intact no matter what you’re carrying. Another impressive, authentic detail that shouldn’t be missed can be found on the patch of the 60’s jean. TCB have adjusted the seam on the patch by a few millimeters (yes–millimeters!) so that the corners take on a rounded shape as it wears down, which is consistent with classic 60’s denim.



What’s the TCB brand philosophy?


TCB’s philosophy is all about reverence for menswear history. With a particular focus on early-to-mid twentieth century workwear, TCB’s design process is directly informed by vintage references. When it comes to making clothing that honors menswear classics, there are few brands who have taken on that mission with more seriousness, or scrupulous attention to detail, than TCB Jeans.

Ultimately, TCB is a brand for those of us who appreciate denim in its classic form and who view denim as a lifelong journey. All of TCB’s fabrics are custom loomed in Okayama based on vintage samples. Extra attention is paid to the aging process, to make sure that TCB garments will fade and age just as beautifully as the original vintage pieces they are inspired by.






Which products form the core TCB offering?

50’s JEAN


TCB’s core offering is anchored around the signature 50’s Jean. Featuring a high rise and relaxed straight fit with a slight taper, the 50’s Jean is made with the utmost reverence for classic 50’s construction.

20’s JEAN


The 20’s Jean is also one of TCB’s core models, inspired by the decade when jeans were once worn with suspenders and they always had a cinch back to adjust the size of the waist. This jean is an authentic reproduction of a vintage garment owned by TCB from 1922, the year in which belt loops started to appear.

60‘s JEAN


The third jean in the core collection its the 60’s Jean: an authentic recreation of early 60’s style denim. The fit is tapered with a relaxed rise and slightly more room at the thigh. Denim from the 60’s can often be distinguished by its slightly more blueish tint of indigo, as well as a slubby, almost fuzzy surface texture.






How did the brand first get started?

TCB’s history is inextricably linked to founder Hajime Inoue. Originally from Hiroshima, Inoue got into denim in the 90s as a teenager fascinated by American culture. He began working for a local tailor right at the time of the American denim boom in Japan, and the growth of the authentic reproduction denim industry throughout the country.

After a stint in Kyoto, Inoue built the foundation of his denim career in Okayama, Japan’s denim capital, where he worked repairing vintage sewing machines like the iconic Union Special, while learning the ins and outs of production at the same time. In 2007, he opened his own sewing factory in Kojima, and soon TCB was born.


Is it “Taking Care of Business” or “Two Cats Brand”?

Basically it’s whichever you prefer!




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Blue In Green is an independent denim and lifestyle boutique based in SoHo, NYC. As one of the first retailers in North America to import Japanese made selvedge denim, since its founding in 2006 Blue In Green has become NYC’s preeminent denim store and continues to be the exclusive purveyor of many international brands.

LIFE IN DENIM

This year we’re introducing LIFE IN DENIM: a series about everyday life in denim and our neighbors in NYC. Whether you’re at work in the studio, fixing up an old car in the shop, writing, cooking, cycling, climbing, or recording an album, take a photo and tag us with #lifeindenim on Instagram.